Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Pulitzer Prize Winner)
4.6 | 10,713 ratings
Price: 10.99
Last update: 12-30-2025
Product details
- ASIN : B00G3L6JMS
- Publisher : Penguin Books
- Accessibility :
- Publication date : July 21, 2015
- Language : English
- File size : 11.3 MB
- Screen Reader : Supported
- Enhanced typesetting : Enabled
- X-Ray : Enabled
- Word Wise : Enabled
- Print length : 466 pages
- ISBN-13 : 978-0698163744
- Page Flip : Enabled
- Best Sellers Rank:#1,900 in Kindle Store (See Top 100 in Kindle Store)
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- Customer Reviews:4.64.6 out of 5 stars(10,714)
Top reviews from the United States
- San Diego StokeMust Read for Every Wave Rider!As a dedicated bodysurfer who has spent countless hours in the ocean, I found Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life an absolute masterpiece. William Finnegan’s memoir resonated deeply with me, capturing the essence of a life lived in pursuit of the perfect wave.
From the very first page, Finnegan’s storytelling prowess hooked me. His vivid descriptions of waves, the ocean, and the diverse surfing spots around the globe transported me back to my own exhilarating experiences in the water. The way he recounts his harrowing adventures and the sheer beauty of the surf is nothing short of poetic.
One of the aspects I appreciated most about this book is Finnegan’s unflinching honesty. He delves into the challenges, fears, and triumphs of a surfer’s life, painting a realistic picture that goes beyond the glamorous portrayal often seen in media. His reflections on the camaraderie among surfers, the environmental changes, and the personal growth that comes with the sport are thought-provoking and inspiring.
What truly sets Barbarian Days apart is Finnegan’s deep understanding of the ocean. His respect for the sea and its unpredictable nature mirrors my own feelings as a bodysurfer. I found myself nodding in agreement as he described the sensations and instincts that come with being in the water, the thrill of catching a wave, and the respect for the immense power of the ocean.
I couldn’t put this book down. It’s a compelling read that will resonate with anyone who loves the ocean, whether they surf, bodysurf, or simply appreciate the beauty of nature. Finnegan’s journey is not just about surfing; it’s about life, passion, and the relentless pursuit of dreams.
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a must-read for anyone who has ever felt the call of the sea. It’s a beautifully written, deeply personal memoir that captures the heart and soul of surfing—highly recommended! - Greg CernyThe best book on surfing ever written. And a pretty good one about life.A must read if you’ve ever surfed, skateboarded, or snowboarded. You’ll recognize the commitment it takes to achieve any kind of proficiency in those balance sports. This guy was on staff at The New Yorker, he can write. And he’s surfed all over the globe for 50 some years. A phenomenal read. It’s a memoir and about life as well as surfing. Highly recommended. Deserving of a Pulitzer for sure.
- NonaA Very Entertaining RideI just finished reading Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life, an excellent book by William Finnegan
A friend recommended it and compared it H is for Hawk.
While both are memoirs, they are very different and in my opinion Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is much better.
Barbarian Days tells the story of Finnegan’s surfing. The details of this life fill in the background, but are not the focus of the story, because this is really a story about waves and surfing and one person’s adventures in search of the repeated, excellent waves.
Finnegan’s continued deprecation of his surfing skills and wave size gets a little annoying.. Finnegan is an excellent surfer, as anyone who has devoted the time and effort to the ocean can tell. His continual minimization of his own skills and his descriptions of double overhead waves as 5 foot surf may mislead the reader from Kansas about the giants that Finnegan repeatedly rides. The untutored may miss the point that when an expert like Finnegan is afraid to go out, the surf is really, really big and really, REALLY dangerous, and that the two are not necessarily correlated.
Finnegan, who wrote the New Yorker profile of Doc Renneker several years ago, knows both the waves and the English language. His prose flows easily and contains facts that will help apprentice surfers perform better and the general reader understand the incredibly complex task of riding a board on top of a moving, changing, challenging wave and the stoke almost any ride can bring to the rider.
While no book can compare to the feel you get riding a wave, Finngan’s book is an enjoyable experience in its own right and reading it will be a great experience when the waves are flat or the ocean is distant. - KauiRead this book; you will enjoy it.I thought this book was a masterpiece. I enjoy the genre of "adventure memoirs," of which this is definitely a lead member. Though it is not as thrilling as Lansing's Endurance, or as compelling as Krakauer's Into Thin Air, this book is an intense meditation about surfing and how it shaped William Finnegan's life. Reviews talk about how Finnegan explores themes like family. I did not think so. I think Finnegan explores surfing. In Hawaii. In Southern California. In Portugal. In Australia. In Northern California. In New York.
As he learns to appreciate the breaks, currents and tides of each locale, he invariably meets friends, lovers and forms a relationship to his world. In his case, Finnegan's world is at once very large (he travels around the world for several years) and small (he is driven by surfing. That is IT.) The narrative meanders, but compellingly so. I could FEEL the waves with him. Finnegan's writing is excellent, and he is a well-read fellow, sprinkling many literary references throughout. These, in my opinion, added a depth of deliciousness to an already very enjoyable book.
If you are from Hawaii, you have to read the first chapter; it is hysterical. If you are from Santa Cruz, or surf Ocean Beach, you must read about his SF days - they are... interesting. If you are from New York, you must read about his discovery of awesome surfing on Long Island and the Sound.
That I read this book during the summer months, that I am from Hawaii, live in the Bay Area and have a deep connection to Manhattan only served to expand this book's dimensional delightfulness further for me. Even without these personal connections, this book deserves the attention it is getting. My only thought is I wonder how Finnegan feels about the popularity of this book and how it compares to the popularity and reach of his political publications.
Either way, read this book. It is excellent.