This is a lyrical piece of meditation on many things - too many things - and almost none of it about Siena. Yes, there is art-historical analysis of a few of the well-known paintings there (although a giant miss on his read of Caravaggio’s “David and Goliath” calls his skill for art analysis into question). There is the briefest mention, in passing, of the Palio, almost dismissive of its role in the life of everyday Siena. The plague and its effects are deftly recounted, but that is the Siena of the past and not the city of the present. The only folks the author converses with, and that very briefly, are not Sienese. Nothing is said of the many particulars of the local culture and traditions, and it’s astonishing to me that anyone could spend a month in the city and omit to discuss (with any real attention) the history, the role, and the respective influences the Palio and the contrade hold over everyday life in Siena.
The author mistakes visiting Sienese works of art and personal interpretation of them for a meaningful immersion into the city itself. Perhaps he experienced such an immersion and never wrote about it, choosing instead ruminations, meditations, self-reflection, stories of other people and other places that are obviously nearer to his heart. It is disappointing — if you read this you will get a very thin and sparse idea of the city of Siena as the place it is today. I am not sure what the author truly intended. The whole thing - and it is a short book - has no focus and no driving narrative threads for us to follow. For the delicacy of his prose, I rate it at three stars. As a book I rate it at two stars.
If you expect to read a richly described sojourn in Siena, you are certain to be disappointed. A pity, because the journey clearly meant a great deal to him — but he fails to illuminate to the reader *why* it does, apart from his love of the Sienese school of painting. This comes across as a lack of courage to share those everyday moments, encounters and experiences which would give flesh to the bones of this book. Too much is left out, and it’s a skimpy and frustrating read.