Wolverine 8mm & Super 8 Reels to Digital MovieMaker Pro Film Digitizer, Film Scanner, 8mm Film Scanner, Black (MM100PRO)

4.2 4.2 out of 5 stars | 1,904 ratings

Price: 399.95

Last update: 10-30-2024


About this item

A fully automated apparatus to digitize 8 and Super 8 movie Reels (no sound and no split 16mm). Frame-by-Frame digitizing for high-quality digital conversion.
Stand-alone machine, no computer, no software or Drivers are required. Scans and directly saves digital movies into SD/SDHC cards (32GB max, not included)
Converts 8 and Super 8 movies into 1080P mjpeg-4 (MP4) digital video files.
Compatible with all windows, Mac and Linux operating systems.
Playback direct to tv's using the included TV cable.

Product information


Top reviews from the United States

Milwaukie guy
5.0 out of 5 stars Worth every Penny
Reviewed in the United States on November 5, 2019
This thing is fantastic. The "Movie Maker Pro" works as flawlessly as I would expect any similar product this affordable.
I was going to take my old films to a local converting store-counter, when I realized I couldn't order and prioritize the reels and the content to my preference, and would spend a small fortune doing them all, and I have no way to review them. The "MMP" lets you review in the viewing screen as the recording is being done; letting you stop and adjust frame size and position when needed. It can hang-up on splices (extra thickness on film) and this should be expected in a close-tolerance process. Sometimes you can muscle the film through with a pull by hand without stopping the recording; and you do need a software editing program like Windows Movie Maker which came with my Dell PC, if anything at all goes wrong and you have to put two or more segments of movies "back together again;" because MMP will start a new recording file each time you stop and restart recording. Besides, sometimes there are lengths of unexposed or underexposed film you want to edit out to make the film better.

The fact it increments the recording/file numbers is a GOOD thing, because it eliminates later confusion about sequencing and possibility of same file no.'s overwriting on your computer, losing a good predecessor file, and having to scan over again, or worse, not realizing it until much later... where did it go? It can increment files to 9,999.

I disagree with an earlier reviewer that the take-up reel motor should be "stronger," in fact I wouldn't be surprised if it has a belt or slip-clutch system to NOT tear apart your precious old films. The take-up reel does NOT pull your film through; it merely takes up the slack, if any, and winds the scanned film onto a temporary reel until you want to rewind onto your storage reel. Rather, the sprockets in the scanning bed area turn and move the film through the scanner without need for a take-up reel at all. It would be nice to have a higher megapixel recording camera/chip, but this one is adequate and affordable. I DO agree with earlier reviews that said the guide posts should rotate freely on bearings, again, a cost issue; and that bypassing several of these posts can help with more continuous flow of the film... I do bypass several. Experimentation will guide you. Keep the scan bed clean with the provided brush... the old films do deposit dust. How considerate of Wolverine to include the little air brush.

My tips: if the reels do rub on the backing arm/surface you can pull them slightly outward or add some scotch tape to the backing to protect it (some reels have become crooked and wobble); it's very helpful to move the film freely in the bed to where you want it, as to start or restart a recording by clicking open the bed's hold-down cover, and the film will then slide while still under the three white tabs; I stopped recording the white leader tape, blank of images, and instead moved the film as described above to the first few frames of actual image; then I do the frame adjust command next, and use the easy X,Y,W axis provided on-screen to center my frames; only then do I enter record mode, and adjustment is usually right-on. Do "baby-sit" your valuable old films to watch for hang-ups and frame out-of-centering, this is the fault of the film's worn and spliced condition, not of the MMP. You'll enjoy the frame by frame viewing during the process and see many things in your film that you won't notice at ten-times the playback speed later (reading advertising on Christmas gift box-lids, scanning the old furniture in your childhood home, etc.); lastly, I don't thread the leader or sometimes leader-less films directly onto the take-up reel at the beginning, rather I start at frame 1-4, do the frame-adjust, start recording, and as the scanned film lengthens I then insert it into the take-up wheel's slot, hand-wind the wheel off-spindle to almost caught-up with the scanned slack film and only then press the wheel onto the rotating take-up shaft; this allows all but the first 1-4 frames to be scanned and avoids leader/splice hang-up at the very start; the more you eliminate hand-pulling hung up film through, the less likely to break it or the splices. You acquire a skill of gently pressing the reel onto the rotating shaft until the lock-in fin on the shaft inserts into the reel's fin-slot and let your hands rotate with the counter-clockwise movement so stress on the motor or clutch is minimal... this is less resistance than a hung-up film that stops take-up completely until powered off or hand-pulled through the bed. You can either do that, or resign to not scanning the length of film you thread into the mounted reel; or else always use and replace missing leader. When an old film breaks during scanning, and a few did, I don't worry about splicing or adding leader, I simply wind the broken end on top of the already taken-up film on the right-side reel, when the newly scanned section becomes long enough to give it several wraps over the reel to where it will not slip, but will continue winding. I don't expect to ever have to get these old films out of storage to work with again, but can deal with breaks later if I decide to re-scan in the future.

I was thrilled to see for the first time my parents' wedding movie, over 71 years-old color film, and a few of the reels are up to 78 years old. The internet said films can last "several decades," imagine color film over seven decades old!
Don Pierson
4.0 out of 5 stars Small, Compact and Works But Cheaply Made
Reviewed in the United States on February 22, 2024
I've been using this for a couple weeks now digitizing some '60s and '70s 8 mm and Super8 mm film reels of various sizes, all of which having had proper storage since then, and had a learning curve that took some attempts before I realized that most of the issues were because the film hold-down pinches the film too tightly. As a workaround but certainly not a fix, I've been lightly clamping the edge of a film cleaning pad under the hold-down lid so that it doesn't press down quite so hard and for the most part that solved the issue. A better fix would be an adjustable hold-down or simply lighter springs. From reading online, the pressure can be adjusted in a roundabout way but no tools I have are able to fit in to do so and it did not come with any.

The transport itself is marginal and being mostly plastic is flimsy but it works although fast forward (called Rewind on the device; it has no actual rewind as such) moves at a snail's crawl. Also, and I knew this before purchasing so it wasn't a surprise, it came with only a 5" take-up reel when it is capable of holding up to 9" or so and the 5" was too small for many of our reels of film.

It is not possible to multi-task while rewinding by taking out the SD card to extract the data on a computer as removing it causes the Wolverine to simply shut itself off no matter what it is doing. While the buttons are fairly easy to use, the firmware behind them, if there is any at all, is mediocre.

Getting the film into the holder is another issue which had a learning curve and much more difficult when following the directions that came with the machine which states to first slide the film under the back center hold-down tab, then work it under the left and right ones at the front by twisting the film slightly. It is far easier and quicker to place the left one under first, then the center, then the right.

As for the quality of the transfer, it seems okay but with the too tight film hold-down there is some slight jitter which I have not been able to completely eliminate so I must run jitter removal filters as part of the post processing. Software filters can only guess so do not totally eliminate it so made me wonder why no automatic frame detection was used in the machine itself that would eliminate jitter being added in the first place.

Setting the framing adjustment is fairly easy once I learned that it needed to be done so be sure to do it first before digitizing an entire reel. Also, keep watching on the next reels you do as the setting does not seem consistent from reel to reel which, of course, is likely variations in the film rather than in the Wolverine. What I did was to fame it smaller to allow for the variations, then cropped it afterward.

Over all and in spite some of my criticisms, I would recommend this to anyone with old movies to digitize but don't expect perfect results without considerable fuss and good editing software afterward as the results are not plug and play!
JeffCD
5.0 out of 5 stars This works significantly better than I expected it to.
Reviewed in the United States on October 29, 2022
After reading the other reviews and looking at the pictures, I fully expected this to either be an expensive paperweight, or that I would be returning it due to lack of functionality. The results are actually really impressive. The image quality is as good as the film you run through it. Threading and film handling aren't great, but it is sufficient for capturing accurate digital copies. As everyone else said, it doesn't deal well with splices, but that's not a big deal. It's slow, but for a single time capture, it's fine. You can't put a 9" reel on it and walk away, you need to be around for when it hits a splice, but again, the output is great. It would be nice if it had a real rewind function, or if the existing rewind function was faster than a snail's pace. I ended up using a different machine for rewinding the films.

In the end, the results are great and well worth the money. Depending on the film, you may need to do color correction post-processing. The resulting speed is 20 FPS, which is a little fast for my 18FPS film, but it isn't noticeable enough to be worth trying to fix it.

I think the price is probably $100 too high, but, it works. If you have any experience handling film, the hokey threading is easy enough to figure out.