Cecilio 4/4 CEVN-1BK Solid Wood Electric/Silent Violin with Ebony Fittings in Style 1 - Full Size - Black Metallic

4 4 out of 5 stars | 579 ratings

Price: 117.99

Last update: 10-12-2024


About this item

Size 4/4, style 1 electric / silent violin in black metallic varnish (full size)
Hand-carved solid maple wood body with ebony fingerboard, pegs, chin rest and tailpiece with mother of pearl inlay
Powered by a 9V Alkaline battery (included)
Includes: lightweight hard case, Brazil wood bow with unbleached genuine Mongolian horsehair, quality rosin cake, a bridge, aux cable, and headphones
1 Year Warranty Against Manufacturer's Defects

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Product Warranty: For warranty information about this product, please click here. [PDF ]

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Cecilio 4/4 CEVN-1BK Solid Wood Electric/Silent Violin with Ebony Fittings in Style 1 - Full Size - Black Metallic

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Top reviews from the United States

D.A.
5.0 out of 5 stars Good starter violin
Reviewed in the United States on November 3, 2013
I've got some experience with musical instruments(I played a woodwind in middle school). But I'm a newcomer to string instruments. I've wanted to learn to play the violin for a long time. I love the sound they produce and recently looked into purchasing one so that I could learn on my own. I live in an apartment complex with thin walls, so I wanted a silent violin. After looking at more expensive models like Yamaha's, I decided to settle on an inexpensive student violin. Even so, I was a bit skeptical about this model as it was only $136 on Amazon. And I'm a big believer in the adage "you get what you pay for." But I was pleasantly surprised with this purchase. The product arrived in a timely manner and in good working order. It came with:
- relatively sturdy case
- aux cable
- headphones
- rosin
- bow

It will need to be tuned before you can play. Initially, I spent more time tuning than I did playing. I am told that this is normal for new strings because they need time to stretch. But I guess I stretched mine to much because I snapped the "A" string. Luckily, I'd purchased a pair of Dominant strings and was able to put the new string on ( I learned how on Youtube). I noticed that the Dominant string looked sturdier and sounded better than the rest, so I changed those out as well. I noticed an immediate difference in the tone and loudness. I also don't have to tune these as much. Speaking of tuning, the pegs seem to be really stiff. And I think I might have cracked the peg box around the peg for the "G" string, but this could also just be a crack in the paint.

This violin is lightweight and easy to play but, as others have mentioned, paint from the fingerboard will rub-off a bit. It's not that noticeable, though. I expected the bow to be really cheap, but it seems to be even better than the $45 bow I bought. I have a pair of Bose headphones, so I didn't even bother with the others. I don't think the rosin is of good quality, but I won't know for sure until I compare it with another brand I bought today. My one gripe is that this violin is not as "silent" as I'd like, especially after switching out the strings. I also bought a plastic mute, but I still don't notice much of a difference. Since this is not an acoustic model, maybe a mute won't work. Perhaps someone can elaborate on this. Anyway, I don't think it's that loud, but I'd be really embarrassed if someone heard me screeching away on this thing in the middle of the night. For that reason, I've decided to upgrade to a Yamaha model. But I will keep this as a backup. I might update my review to compare the sound quality once I get my Yamaha.

To summarize, it's a good student violin at a bargain price. If a more expensive model is not in your budget, I'd recommend this one. Although there are some additional items you will need to purchase like:
- peg dope-- my pegs were REALLY stiff and I worried about cracking the peg box
- strings-- I read good reviews about the Dominants. I was not disappointed
- metal mute-- If you're okay with the level of sound then don't bother, but a metal mute will work better than plastic
- shoulder rest-- I got an Everest model on Amazon and it works wonderfully
- rosin-- It cracked when I filed the smooth side off. I also noticed that it cut a few of the hairs on my bow.
dvjac
4.0 out of 5 stars After several weeks of use
Reviewed in the United States on March 22, 2013
I purchased this Cecilio violin from Amazon because of my history of dealings with Amazon quality.
I was taught violin, in my youth, and played daily for fifteen years. I am also a union carpenter and have over forty years of building experience. My profession and duties at home did not allow a practice schedule. I would play when I had opportunity. I have an acoustic violin that will project through the house with closed doors, rubber practice mute and foam in the "F" holes. I have some electric experience with a Barcus Berry pickup on my acoustic but no experience with electric solid bodies.
I needed something for silent practice and decided on this violin as an inexpensive trial until I can build my own. I am reviewing this as a budget electric violin and not comparing it to much more expensive electric violins. I am not qualified to review this violin in a professional amplified setting.
I cannot add or detract from fiddleman's video review. This violin is machine produced for a mass audience. I found the quality control reasonable for this function. The one I received is perfect for silent practice. I found the controls to be functional and the jacks to be secure if the cable is partially supported by a shoulder rest or through an opening in the violin body. My Wolfe shoulder rest fits but slips on the lacquered finish. I am going to try some non-skid paste wax.
The violin I received is functional and playable but I found some fitting I needed to improve on mine. I noticed some of the tuning problems that others had but with strange noises as I brought up string tension. I initially attributed it to a normal settling in and string stretching.
After a few days, I decided to install some D'Addario Pro Arte perlon strings like I use on my acoustic.
I checked the fingerboard, with a straightedge and it does have a shallow scoop; however, there were light chatter marks from the machining. I filed and sanded them to smoothness, bridging the marks. I filed to touch and steel straightedge. They still show visually from the burnishing of the machining. I did not want to overcut for cosmetics.
I filed the nut for uniform string clearance at the fingerboard. The E string side was a mm higher and not rounded on the end.
The bridge is a factory bridge. I trimmed and thinned the bridge to reduce the string height to my preferences.
The pegs only fit about half way into the opposite peg box wall. I did not want to buy a peg cutter so I lightly turned the pegs in 320 grit sandpaper to remove the finish. I rotated in each direction and frequently checked until they were just flush with the opposite peg box wall. I gently rounded the ends but only the edges. The pegs are cut for length, so I didn't round the ends to the normal profile. I used a common #2 graphite pencil to lubricate the contact points with the peg box walls. If the pegs slip, you can use blackboard chalk. If you get too aggressive in your fitting you will be drilling new string holes in the pegs.
When I installed the new strings there were ominous noises again. I released all string tension and checked the tailpiece. The "gut" had small finely treaded brass retainers that screwed on each end. One was slipping and nearly off. I remembered the past, using cellos strings with a knot but didn't have one available. I chose to use what I had on hand, Super Glue. I threaded the devices back to where they should have been. The fittings pulled the glue with capillary action and it seems to be a good temporary fix. I did leave it over night to cure.
I removed the fine tuners leaving only the E string. Four tuners are common with steel strings. It is very important to bring your string tension up gradually. Constantly straighten the bridge so the side near the tailpiece is at 90 deg to the violin body. I use light tension on the G and E to start. I experienced at least a day of settling in before the violin would stay in tune.
I don't recommend my unprofessional efforts but rather a set up by a skilled professional. If you are a home hobbyist, there are many helpful articles to sort through on the Internet. A sharp knife, sandpaper and a good file will do the work. I would not do this work myself on an acoustic violin. Precise bridge work is critical to sound on an acoustic and even experienced luthiers are still developing their skills.
The violin now plays very similar to my acoustic and I have played it several weeks. It was certainly worth the low price. I find it to be very useful for the quiet practice I needed.

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