Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor Light Switch for Bathroom, Garage, Laundry Room, and Closet, for Any Light Bulbs, Occupancy and

4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars | 14,762 ratings

Price: 15.95

Last update: 01-20-2025


About this item

HANDS FREE, WORRY FREE: Walk into your bathroom, garage, laundry room, and closet without having to worry about turning on lights
FOCUS ON YOUR TASKS: Focus on any home projects and chores when leaving the room without having to think about turning off the lights
IDEAL FOR KIDS: Motion sensing lights will ensure your lights won't stay when your kids leave the room
AUTOMATIC SWITCH: Motion sensor light switch automatically turns the lights on when you enter the room and off when you leave
SMART LIGHT DETECTION: Senses daylight in the room and learns your preferred light level over time, so your lights stay off if it's already bright
COST AND ENERGY SAVING: Don't stress about your lights on when leaving your house. Save money by relying on the light switch to turn off for you
MODE SETTINGS: Occupancy Mode (Auto ON, Auto OFF) and Vacancy Mode (Manual On, Auto Off) allows you to adjust the sensor to your needs; Programmble to delay turning off your light switch to 1, 5, 15 or 30 minutes after leaving a room
FLEXIBLE INSTALL: Install using the ground wire if no neutral is available in your home; Single Pole Only
QUICK INSTALL: Install in as little as 15 minutes; works with to 150-Watt CFL/LED, 250-Watt incandescent, halogen, electronic low voltage, 200-Watt magnetic low voltage, or 2-Amp ballasts
INCLUDES: (1) 2-Amp Maestro sensor switch; coordinating wallplate sold separately

Product information

Technical Details


Top reviews from the United States

  • Ritvik Nag
    5.0 out of 5 stars Lutron Is THE Brand for Automated Motion Sensor Switch!
    Reviewed in the United States on November 25, 2023
    This review is for:
    Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor Switch | 2 Amp, Single Pole | MS-OPS2H-2-WH | White (2-Pack)

    The purchase price at the time I made it was $35 with tax, in June 2023. It is normally over $50, so I would recommend waiting for a holiday sale if possible.

    I installed this in two locations, my laundry room (for obvious reasons) and a small walled room that just has a toilet alone, situated within a master bathroom.

    These switches were installed in a newly built home where the builders, for whatever reason, went "balls to the wall" on those cheap toggle switches in every corner under the sun. I suppose it's understandable, and didn't complete the removal and install process overmuch, other than I would recommend having a thin, long metal pin or those foldout pocket screwdrivers with multi-heads, which can be used to push the pin into the back of the toggle switches to remove wiring from them.

    Tools recommended:
    + AC/DC voltage tester
    + flathead screwdriver
    + metal pin or multi-head pocket screwdriver with a long, thin head (for existing toggle switches)
    + wire pliers for straightening wires -- not needed, can also use your fingers with a t-shirt or a cloth as a layer of protection to straighten out curled wires
    + wing-nut wire connectors for wire-nutting wires in box (should be included)

    Installation steps (which were performed):
    + Turn off power at the circuit breaker. Recommend having lights on and one person stand in the room with switch, so that they can yell down at you when the lights go off, and you know which switch at the CB is associated with the install location.
    + Remove wall plate with flat-head screw driver. Remove top/bottom screws of target replacement switch and gently pull it out. Take out Voltage Tester and confirm that current is off -- both black/red wires should not result in a *beep* sound from the VT. If no sound, all is good.
    + Use metal pin or a thin-head screwdriver and insert in hole in back. Once they go all the way inside, wire should be easy to remove. For the wires curled around screws instead, use screwdriver to loosen those screws, and "uncurl" those wires with a wire plier or like I did, use a t-shirt to wrap your fingers and then straighten them that way.
    + Make a note of where the red and black wires are coming from -- there should be a wire bundle with tons of similar wires wing-nutted together. Remove the wing nut from each bundle and try to add either of the switch's black wires to it. Cinch them together with existing wing-nut wire connector. If too many wires, as in my case, then disregard that approach. Cap off existing wire bundle. Use included orange wing-nut connectors to tie the existing switch's black/red wire with either of the new Lutron switch's black wire. Twist and cap them off. Use gentle force to shove them into an empty, unoccupied space near the back of the box.
    + For newer homes, your box should have neutral wires. Disregard black/red wire bundle. Disregard the bare copper wire bundle (wires with no sleeves) -- these are ground wires. The only remaining wire bundle is your neutral wires. These should normally have white sleeves. Remove the existing wing-nut connector, remove the green sleeve from the new Lutron switch, and tie in the white switch wire along with the existing white wires in the bundle. Cap them off. Again, if too many wires, use the included wing-nut connector instead.
    + Find bare copper (exposed) wire from the existing switch, and group that with the new Lutron switch's bare metal (exposed) wire, which should be at the top. Cap that off, and stick the new bundle at the back of the box.
    + Now use flathead screwdriver to tighten top/bottom screws into the new Lutron switch -- can use existing switch's screws if preferred. Might need to "force" the switch to fit into the box, but not too much -- remember, this is why positioning the wire bundles into the empty spaces in the back of the box is so helpful. That way, less force is used, and less chance of wires getting crossed and tripping the CB when main power is turned on.
    + Turn on power at CB. If all is well, circuit won't get shorted out. Try to push the power button on switch. If install was successful, light should turn on.
    + Finally, turn off power at CB to be safe, and screw the wall plate back onto the wall. If your Lutron switch was replacing a toggle switch -- as mine was -- you will need to invest in a rocker switch wall plate, or a 1-rocker 1-toggle wall plate if you have a 2-gang wall plate as I did.
    + Turn back power on the CB.
    + To setup Custom settings, Lutron recommends to leave wall plate removed. In my case, I just needed to update the default timeout from 5 minutes to 1 minute, to save on electricity costs. Thus, it was fine for me to have the wall plate on. In my case, I pressed and held the big button on the new Lutron switch, until it blinked twice, then I released it. I turned it on and off three times fast, then stepped out of the room for about 5 minutes. Once I stepped back inside, the light turned off with a click, and turned off after 1 minute of no motion detected. Seems all is in order!

    As mentioned, I got the 2-pack and installed the motion switches in two locations.

    The first location is my laundry room, where the switch is facing in same direction as person entering, so obviously 180 degrees of motion detection is preferable. In practice, I get ~150 degrees of detection, which is good enough as the light turns on with a *click* as soon as I walk into the laundry room. This is helpful if I or someone else is holding a laundry bag or hamper full of clothes, as I don't need to free a hand to fiddle with the light switch -- it just gracefully turns on as soon as I enter, and turns off just as gracefully as soon as I exit the room. This works out perfect for me, and all involved.

    The second install location is a small cubicle-style room with only a toilet. This room is always dark no matter the time of day as there are no windows in this small enclosure. Further, it is located inside a master bathroom. The switch is facing again in the same direction as the person entering the room, and is a 2-gang with a switch for the bathroom fan. I got a 3-pack of 2-gang wall plates (1 rocker and 1 toggle openings) and installed one of them here. The wall plate looks really good, and in practice the motion switch functions really well. It turns on as soon as someone enters (no need to waste time fiddling with the light) and gracefully turns off after 1 minute of them exiting or no motion being detected, whichever is first. This is excellent and works for my use case, and I fully expect it to translate it into a slightly lower monthly power bill. Huzzah.

    All in all, highly satisfied with the 2-pack of Lutron motion sensing light switches, and I have installed them in two single-pole light switch locations. I have had them for a few months now, and there are absolutely no problems. I am extremely satisfied with their performance and they have saved time and money most definitely, because even if someone "forgets" to turn off the lights, they are never on overnight, which is excellent in my books.

    In short, I highly recommend the Lutron brand of light switches for motion detection and automation purposes, especially in a use case such as mine. Installation is relatively straightforward, and you don't need to be a licensed electrician to install one -- though knowledge of electrical wiring certainly helps. Check it out, I guarantee that you won't be disappointed!
  • eman
    5.0 out of 5 stars 3-way Light Switch for Dummies (like me)
    Reviewed in the United States on May 11, 2012
    Finding the right switch was like a search for the Holy Grail. I installed 2 different switches in 2 different ways for each trying to make it work. Major issue was trying to figure out what switch to buy, so I will lay it out in a very simple "Electrical Connections for Dummies" kind of way.

    Disclaimer: the wiring in your home may be different from mine, so please use this advice at your own risk.

    My situation: Laundry room leading to the garage with doored entrance on both ends. 2 switches, one on each end of the laundry room.
    My want: To have the laundry room light turn on automatically when I enter the laundry room from the garage or from the house and turn off automatically after a couple of minutes
    The solution: This switch and the below instructions
    1. Turn off your power to the switches at the fuse box
    2. Take off all the wires from both switches and separate them. My switch has 4 wires: 2 black (1-hot, 1-traveler), 1 red (traveler) and 1 bare wire (ground) Note: If you have white wires in there, then those should be your neutral wires and should already be tied off to another white neutral to complete the circuit (don't worry about these)
    3. Buy a hot wire detector (like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-Volt-Alert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1336776918&sr=8-1) from Amazon. I bought one at Home Depot for about $14.
    4. Turn on power to the switches at the fuse box - please make sure that nobody is going to come wandering in and touch the open wires
    5. Take the hot wire detector and place it near every wire from both switches. Once you find the hot wire, then label it as "hot". This is the wire that is connected to your fuse box, and this is where you HAVE TO connect the regular switch. You CANNOT put the Motion switch on this end - Update: Someone commented that you can, but just stating what the installation instructions showed in the diagram.
    6. Turn off your power to the switches again at the fuse box
    7. Take the "hot" wire and screw-tap with one of the travelers which you will label as "Traveler A"
    8. Turn on your power to the switches at the fuse box
    9. Use hot wire detector to find the live traveler wire on the other end (where the motion switch will go)
    10. Label that live wire as "Traveler A"
    11. Turn off your power to the switches at the fuse box
    12. Repeat step 7-10 for the other traveler wire but label wires as "Traveler B"
    13. The remaining wire at the Motion switch end is the "load" wire that connects to the laundry room light
    14. From here you should be able to follow the instructions of the Motion light switch fairly easily. Only thing that may seem confusing is connecting the wires at the regular switch - you have to take the separate wire included with the motion switch and connect that to the black screw of the regular switch and then screw-tap it with the "hot" wire and one of the traveler wires. After that, the motion switch connections are straightforward.

    This switch allows you to do the following:
    - Adjust motion detection sensitivity (regular and extra-sensitive)
    - Adjust time to auto off (15 seconds, 1 minute, 5 minutes, 15 minutes and 30 minutes - can't remember exact increments since I only wanted 1 minute).
    - Make it auto-on (what I needed) or manual-on switch with auto-off
    - Turn off the lights manually either at the regular switch end or on the motion switch end, and it will reset itself for auto-on (takes about 20 seconds to reset itself)
    - Able to use with CFL or better known as fluorescent bulbs - which is what I have.

    Great switch and fits my needs perfectly. I have found the Holy Grail.
    Good Luck!

    UPDATE 4/8/13: Well, it's been about a year since I installed this switch, and it is still working like a charm. Very sensitive motion detector which is what I wanted so it will instantly turn on upon entry from the house or from the garage. One of the better home improvement projects that I have done. The other ones are timer switches on my bathroom exhaust fans. It's these little things that make your house a home. I am glad this review helped some people out there since it aggravated me to no end spending many hours trying to get the right switch to work. Will keep the light on for you.....or not.

    UPDATE 9/8/15: Still running like a champ after over 3 years in service. Some have asked about being able to install the motion detectors on both ends (i.e. at bottom and top of stairs). Unfortunately, I am not an electrician which is why my review was more for electrical dummies like me; thus, I cannot advise or recommend doing anything custom with these switches. I only "go by the book" with my home's wiring since I am too chicken to risk burning my home to the ground. For those who are certified electricians and can advise on these custom questions, then please help a brother / sister out. Peace, love and.......light.

    UPDATE 12/18/16: Still running and working as installed over 4 years ago. Switched my bulbs from CFLs to LEDs since the CFLs seems to burnout quickly with the repeated on/off in this high-traffic area. I can confirm that it works fine with LED bulbs also, and the LEDs last much longer (have not needed to change either of the 2 bulbs for the last 6 months). Merry Christmas to all!

    UPDATE 5/11/2022: 10 Years to this day!!! And still working like a champ! Need I say more?

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